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Combe House in the Press - a few media reviews from the last 10 years
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TWENTY-FIFTH ANNIVERSARY| The Sunday Times
A Hotel For Every Stage Of A Relationship...
It’s important to make the most of life’s special landmarks.
We pick the hotels that can improve your relationship.
Matt Rudd | Sunday Times | September 2009
Well done you. You put your troubles behind you. You got through the difficult years. The thing with that bitch Samantha is long-forgotten. Pretty much. You can sail off into the sunset together. A class marriage deserves a class long weekend.
Combe House hotel in Devon is just the place. A jaw-droppingly beautiful manor with NO horrible add-on spa, NO annoying golf course and NO modern annexe of naff rooms overflowing with trouser presses.
The food is excellent, romantic country walks are all around, and the stresses and strains of modern life are a million miles away. Unless, of course, she forgot to pack your slippers. Or he refused to bring a map because he thought he knew the way and now we’re completely lost and it’s getting dark and why can’t we stop and ask someone for directions? Wouldn’t that be sensible? Oh, you’re so obstinate. No, you are. No, you are. No, you are.
Doubles from £190, B&B; tel 01404 540400
click here to read the full Sunday Times travel feature by Matt Rudd
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EX1's favourite restaurant at romantic Combe House Hotel, near Honiton, has been awarded a top European food award for the second year running.
The latest award - the Michelin Rising Star for culinary excellence - maintains the hotel’s place in the 2008 Michelin Red Guide, one of the most recognised & influential restaurant guides in Europe, featuring only 122 restaurants in the UK with one or more stars.
Ken & Ruth Hunt, who run Combe House, say the awards are thanks to their Master Chefs of Great Britain, Stuart Brown and Hadleigh Barrett.
This is how good restaurants should be. An intimate setting for a romantic meal and with Michelin Rising Star status

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there are never any complaints about the food. Better still the waiters have mastered the art of being helpful without being patronising. Highly recommended - click here to read EX1's latest editorial
To read the PDF you will need the latest version of Adobe Reader, to download this please click here to visit the Adobe website and follow the download instructions.
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Radio Times South West. 4th-10th February 2006
Timeless Quality...
Mimic Jon Culshaw's impression of Combe House
London is an incredibly addictive city...so full of opportunities. You really don't know what's going to happen from one day to the next and that's why I love living there. But you have to be careful. If you're there for too long, you can become jaded. You have to get out just to catch your breath, People talk about " recharging your batteries", and I realise it's time for me to do just that.
Devon's not really an area that I know at all. I'm a Lancashire lad - but we decide to try a relaxing weekend break at Combe House Hotel in Gittisham, near Exeter (described by Prince Charles as the "ideal English village". Getting there is ridiculously easy: we get the train from Waterloo to Honiton, then it's a short cab ride from the station. As soon as I get off the train, I know I've made the right decision. Just getting your lungs full of that country air and not having to listen to the constant hum of traffic. It's as if I can feel my brain uncoiling.
As for the hotel itself...well, what can I say? You step inside and it's like falling back through time to the 1600s. Parts of it date all the way back to the 1300s. Huge sandstone fireplaces, creaky old floorboards...I'm sure I'll turn around and see Queen Elizabeth 1 checking in for the night. It's quite a big place - about 15 rooms - but it doesn't have that horrible hotel atmosphere. It feels like we're in
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somebody's home. Just really, really cosy. And when you look out of the windows, you've got more surprises. We wake up to see pheasants and a herds of arabian horses. And if walking is your thing, you've got hills and moors right on your doorstep.
We decide to have a bit of a lie-in - well, it is meant to be a relaxing break - so we have breakfast in bed, but for the evening meal, I just have to go down to the banqueting hall. Incredible! The walls are covered in old portraits of kings, queens and knights, all looking down at us. We eventually go for the roast beef, but what they bring is much more....I must have about half a cow on my plate. It's a Desperate Dan-sized portion, complete with all the trimmings. Although we don't get the log fire going in our room, we do light candles and enjoy the views out across the night sky. Without all that light pollution, it's truly spectacular. Both Venus and Mars are visible and I really have never seen anything like it.
Combe House is a real find. One of those special places to visit time and time again. It almost seems a shame to tell anyone else about it. |
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Times online – Sept 25th 05
The World's Best Hotels For Dirty Weekends
COMBE HOUSE HOTEL, Gittisham, Devon
Lascivious gimmicks are all very well, but if your libido leans to the romantic rather than the raunchy, little can compare with a country-house hotel.
We choose Combe simply because it’s gorgeous — no spa, no pool, no designer names, just a perfectly intact Elizabethan manor in 3,500 secluded acres. It offers award- |
winning food and only 15 rooms: our favourites are the quirky Pitt, with its bed under a mullioned window; and the Willington, for the thought-provoking four-poster. Both are straight out of the pages of a racy period novel, with stunning views over a verdant valley where thoroughbreds roam free. So rip those bodices and get busy.
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Daily Mail - Saturday June 4th 2005
Combe voted one of the Top Ten Glorious British Sunsets
As the hills of Dartmoor turn purplish blue, magnificent Arab horses from a nearby stud gallop in the secluded valley beyond. You won't find a hotel with a more English setting than Combe House, a Grade 1 Elizabethan Manor surrounded by softly verdant parkland in the village of |
Gittisham. The hotel bar's speciality drink makes a delicious aperitif: the 'Dowa' consists of honey, ice, vodka and crushed limes, all sipped through a straw, and comes from the Swahili word for medicine.
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From The Good Food Guide 2005
Philip Leach runs the kitchen at this many-gabled Elizabethan manor house, where architectural grandeur does not translate into a stuffy ambience. The dedication to sourcing fine seasonal and often local ingredients is clearly a driving obsession, and the sylvan setting includes a large kitchen garden producing an array of herbs, vegetables and fruit. Begin with a woodsy pairing of ceps and leeks in an open ravioli sauced with cep velouté, or tempura oysters with celeriac and oyster soup, before moving on to pot-roast poussin simply paired with colcannon and wild mushrooms, |
or poached fillet of halibut with tagliatelle and pesto dressing. A six-course tasting menu is on hand if choices prove difficult. Puddings range from chocolate brownie with vanilla ice cream to pistachio bavarois with sesame tuiles and milk sorbet. France, in particular Bordeaux and – unusually – Chablis, is the first love of the wine list, with some well-chosen New World back-up. Half bottles are in plentiful supply and six come by the glass. House wine is a rather steep £17.50 |
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The Sunday Times Travel Awards 2004
Country House Hotel
JOINT WINNERS- Combe House Hotel and Restaurant, Devon and Castle Leslie, County Monaghan, Ireland |
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We were agreed that this prize should go to a stately home, but we just couldn't decide between the splendid Elizabethan pile that is Combe House, and Ireland's Castle Leslie.
Combe House remains refreshingly unreconstructed in today's country-house-hotel world of statement spas and OTT extensions: guests choose between the old
servants' quarters and the old masters' quarters. It has been owned by generations of posh Devon families, but despite sumptuous antiques and old-school service, still feels homely, with a small team of expert staff for whom nothing is too much trouble. Bedrooms are sumptuously furnished with |
| antiques and rich fabrics, and the food is amazing: what doesn't come from the kitchen garden is sourced from high-class butchers, smokehouses and farm shops. The excellent head chef, Philip Leach, knocks up an unpretentious, delicious menu (roast rump of lamb with aubergine millefeuille, pan-fried fillet of sea bass with crushed new potatoes). The duck is simply the best. |
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Sunday Times August 8 2004
A Manor to which you'll be accustomed
It may be grand, but it feels like home: Matt Rudd finds the perfect place to unwind - Combe House Hotel, Gittisham, Devon |
The hotel: I've noticed an alarming trend in the shires of late. It's when some splendid country-house hotel sticks on a modern extension round the back to squeeze in more guests. All very egalitarian, but who wants to stay in it? And it doesn't stop there. They'll also bung on a state-of-the-art gym. And a spa where they'll wrap you in mango peel after your game of squash. Mango on my manor? I think not.
Combe House Hotel has no plans to expand. It has just 15 rooms, and if you want a bioneoduothermal seafood mud bath or a raspberry colonic, you'll have to go elsewhere. There are no modern bits – instead, you get to choose between the old servants' quarters and the old master's quarters. |
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Relaxation comes in the form of afternoon tea on the lawn(s). Sunday papers on voluminous sofas and G&T's by the croquet lawn. It's the sort of place that makes you say “righty-ho”, “smashing” and “old chap” repeatedly. Maybe even “spiffing”.
The house isn't Georgian, but that's okay because it's Elizabethan. Over the centuries it has been owned and added to (tastefully) by posh Devon families such as the Willingtons, the Beaumonts, the Putts and the Markers. So there's plenty of intrigue, king-bashing and inbreeding to read up on while you stay , none of which is, to my knowledge, still practiced by the current owners.
Ken and Ruth Hunt took over seven years ago and run it with a small team of expert waiters, maids, gardeners, chefs and Jeevesian bartenders, for whom nothing is too much trouble. And despite the mile-long driveway, the sumptuous antiques and the old- school service, it's not at all intimidating. It feels homely. In fact, by the end of the weekend, you'll feel as if this Grade I – listed manor house is your home. But it isn't – so you'll have leave, all right?
So what are the rooms like?
All individually and sumptuously furnished with antiques and rich fabrics. I couldn't decide which was my favourite – the curiously misshapen, bargain Pitt, or Tommy Wax, the no-holds-barred deluxe option with a bath a deux. They're all lovely.
And the food? The house is set on a huge estate of rolling hills and magical forests, with paddocks of whinnying Arabian horses and no restaurants to speak of, other than its own. To leave this calm sophistication for the cruel realities of Devon proper is, frankly, too much. So it's fortunate that the food here is amazing.
What doesn't come from the walled kitchen garden is sourced from a list of high-class supplier: master butchers, smokehouses, local farm shops. Urbane Ken pootles down to Brixham in his Land Rover each afternoon to collect the catch of the day, and the excellent head chef, Phillip Leach, then knocks up an unpretentious, delicious menu – roast rump of lamb with aubergine millefeuille ,pan-friend fillet of sea bass with crushed new potatoes, that sort of thing.. Before you think this is a Huttonesque whitewash, I'd avoid the John Dory with vanilla veloute, unless you like fishy vanilla. But the duck was the best I've ever had. It tasted like it died happy. Which is probably true for the morning kippers. I'll leave you to find out how good the breakfast is.
Let's suppose we want to leave the hotel. Madness – this is the place to convalesce, Matisse-style. You want to sit, vegetable-like, soak up the views, stretch a lot, and wake up from an unscheduled afternoon nap with a big pillow crease across your face. You don't want to sightsee.
We insist. Fine. Go walking or riding around the estate. Have a crab sandwich in pretty Beer, 20 minutes' drive away. And walk along the cliffs from there to Branscombe: one of England's finest coastal stretches. Then, just stop it and go back to Combe House.
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| Review of Combe House in The Good Hotel Guide 2004 |
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On a vast Devon estate of woodland, meadows and pastures with Arabian horses, stands Ruth and Ken Hunt's Grade I listed Elizabethan manor house (with 19th-century additions). It continues to please most comers: 'A treat: great welcome, gracious surroundings, excellent food,' said visitors in 2003. Other appreciation: 'Friendly, professional; we felt special.' 'Wonderful position, magnificent rooms; everything tastefully done.' The panelled public rooms have huge fireplaces with Grinling Gibbons-style carvings, coats of arms, stags' heads, plastered ceilings, 'an abundance of fine antique furniture, ancestral portraits and flowers'. Rooms are priced according to size and aspect. 'Our "superior" had a three-seat sofa in the window; large bathroom with separate shower.' 'A delightful, spacious room, well appointed, oozing atmosphere.' 'Ours, decorated in lived-in country house style, had lovely views over the gardens. The owner himself brought a tray of tea and delicious home-made biscuits.' |
A couple with three dogs liked a rear suite with direct access to the garden, and parents of three small children wrote of a helpful reception (toys, games and an early supper are provided). There is praise for the food: 'Delicious, beautifully presented: service was friendly, not overly familiar.' Chef Philip Leach serves contemporary dishes, eg, rabbit and chicken terrine with apple and onion relish; best end of lamb, stuffed with lamb sweetbreads, with steamed suet pudding; cherry clafoutis with fromage blanc and hot chocolate sauce. The menu lists the suppliers, all local; many vegetables come from the hotel's walled garden. Private dinners can be held in the candlelit Georgian kitchen. Breakfast, served until 10 am, has good thick toast, 'perfectly poached egg with smoked haddock'. Gittisham is a picture-book village; it has thatched cottages with cream and green walls, and a Saxon church. Nine golf courses are within easy reach, and the hotel has one-and-a-half miles of fishing on the river Otter. The Jurassic Coast (England's only natural World Heritage Site) is not far. (SA Sawyer, John Mulready, and others).
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somewhere different, somewhere special |
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